In the first half below we address the most common application questions we get from customers who want to install new garage flooring or to epoxy paint their garage or shop floors with a solid color epoxy or an epoxy with colored chips. We have the largest selection of Commercial grade flooring products and epoxy floor kits on the market. Our large selection can sometimes be confusing but it's necessary since we don't believe in the one epoxy does all approach. There are just too many factors involved when doing an epoxy floor. Floor condition, floor usage and final appearance desired are just three factors that will effect your selection of which epoxy kit is best for you.
There are of course many other important factors that you should know prior to making a purchase and we believe that the ArmorGarage website provides not only the most but also the best information on how to epoxy coat your floor. We suggest you read through the Floor Guide first to determine which is most similar to your floor. Then read through the product descriptions to find out which epoxy kit suits your look and durability requirements best. Once you've done that you can get further information from one of the 5 "Click Here" Blue Links right below.
We realize this is a lot of information but a proper epoxy floor job is a big investment in both time and money and you should know as much as possible before you purchase any epoxy floor kit. Even if you decide that you don't want to do it yourself you will now be able to properly question a professional about the epoxy he wants to put on your floor. Most times a so called professional can't even tell you what the abrasion rating of his topcoat is or any performance specification for that matter! That is a sure sign to run not walk from that person. The performance specs are what tells you what an epoxy can and can't do. Low quality epoxies have little or no performance data for obvious reasons. ArmorGarage provides you with the most technical information so you know exactly what you're buying!
In the second half we provide you with a list of each of our epoxy kits and a description of each with links to each product page. Please take a moment to read through this and choose the right product for your project and if you are still unsure what is best for your floor feel free to contact us via email@example.com or toll free at 866-532-3979. We're here to help you choose the right product for your application needs and even to help with the design of your new floor.
CLICK HERE for a comparison of our Epoxy Kits vs the competition!
CLICK HERE for a list of epoxy FAQs.
CLICK HERE, for a discussion on epoxy vs interlocking tiles vs roll out mats.
CLICK HERE for Why ArmorGarage Epoxies.
CLICK HERE for crack repair and floor patch kits.
New or Old Concrete Floors: You must wash off all surface dirt and residues, power wash for best results. Then etch the floor with our acid safe etching solution that is provided in our kits. This removes the deep dirt and opens up the concrete pores so that the epoxy has a rough surface to adhere to. Let floor dry 24-48 hrs depending on ambient conditions and then coat with one of our Epoxy kits. Note, etching does not remove grease and oil stains. You must use an oil/grease remover for this. It is important to remove all oil or grease stains as no epoxy can or will adhere to them properly. New floors must cure for a minimum of 30 days before application of any epoxy coating. You must etch new floors in fact we recommend you do an extra strong etching on new floors since they have lots of curing residues at the surface that need to be burned out. If using the instant crack repair compound you will patch any cracks or divots after the etching process. If using the standard crack compound you would do repairs prior to etching. The end result is you want a floor that is dry, rough to the touch, as clean as new concrete with no cracks or divots visible. This will ensure a proper bond and a beautiful final finish.
FLOORS THAT ARE SEALED:All sealers MUST be removed entirely. First you should run a buffing machine or sander with a very aggressive grit over the floor to break the surface of the sealer as much as possible. Then use a strong Muriatic Acid solution of 2 parts water to 1 part acid to remove the sealer. Test by sprinkling water on the floor, if it beads up then resand, reetch and retest. Neutralize floor with TSP powder after etching has fully removed the sealer. Depending on the grade of sealer used it may be necessary to diamond grind it off. But do not attempt to apply any epoxy paint over a floor that still has sealer on it, you will be wasting your time and money.
Previously Painted Floors: This is a very common situation where a floor has been coated previously with a retail grade floor paint or low quality epoxy. These types of coatings fail to a varying degree. The goal here is to determine if the existing coating can be a suitable foundation for your new epoxy floor. You do not want to go through the time and expense of applying a new epoxy coating only to have it come off with the defective paint under it.
There are two situations you can wind up with. Either a coating that is not properly bonded to the concrete and must be fully removed or a coating that is only partially failing. First test the coating with a good floor scraper, if you are able to get the coating to come off the floor by scraping then you must remove all of it. If scraping only removes a very small portion of it then sand the floor with a floor sander or floor buffing machine using at least a 36 grit pad, if most of the coating is coming off at this point you must make sure to remove it entirely. If only a small portion of the coating has failed then repeat with a 60 grit pad. Power wash off residue. Then use a strong Etching solution to etch the coating and any bare concrete, we recommend one of our Acid Etching kits per 400-500 sq ft. This will expose any weakly bonded coating by scraping the old coating with a good floor scraper this will cause any of the weakly bonded paint to come off. If most of the old coating removes easily then make sure to remove all of it. This coating is not properly bonded to the concrete and is not a suitable foundation for a new epoxy coating.
Use an Industrial floor scrapper to make the job easier, we have one available in our crack& joint repair section if needed. If your coating has survived up to this point you can coat it with our Special Primer, this will act as a bonding agent between the old coating and the new epoxy. Not using a bonding primer is rolling the dice on whether the new epoxy will properly bond to the old coating. Here is a set of great images taken by one of our customers when he applied Armor Chip to the previous Home Owner's Home Improvement Center epoxy.
Workshop Floors For light duty workshops or work shops that are part of large residential garages use Armor II listed below. You can also use the Armor Chip or Armor Granite kits for home workshops if you want the color flake look, but we would recommend that you upgrade to the Forklift Duty Topcoat which makes their finish as durable as the Armor II system. Colored flakes are not recommend for use with the Armor II system. By light duty we mean a low volume of vehicles per week(20-30) on the floor, low amount of steel wheeled traffic from floor jacks and tool chests and little to no forklift traffic. For medium to heavy duty workshops(50-100) use the Armor Ultra listed below. If you have a high volume auto repair shop with lots of steel wheeled traffic or you are operating a forklift on the floor on a daily basis then you need to use the Ultra System. Race Shops are recommended to use either the Armor II for smaller shops and the Ultra System for larger higher traffic shops. This is why we offer so many kits because there are so many variables that determine which is best for you.
Machine Shops: Use similar guidance as workshops to choose the best epoxy kit for your floor. Remember it never hurts to over protect your floor. You can only get into trouble if you under protect your floor by using an epoxy not rated for the traffic loads you will be putting on it. So in general if you have a CNC type machine shop with light forklifts and light traffic volume then Armor II is fine. Again you can go with the Chip or Granite kits if you want the colored flake look but just upgrade to the Forklift Topcoat. If you have a heavy equipment machine shop with heavy Forklift loads being moved around constantly and lots of steel wheeled traffic then Ultra is a must.
Pitted or Corroded Floors: The Armor Ultra, Armor Chip and Armor Granite Epoxy System use extra thick epoxy that allows you to fill in pitted and corroded areas. Filling in requires additional material so we recommend that you call us to discuss the how much additional material you will need. The method of filling in pitted floor areas is fairly simple. You first do a coat of our high build epoxy with a flat squeegee, pulling the squeegee along the floor with enough downward pressure on the epoxy so that the epoxy fills in the pits and small divots but leaves very little material on the floor itself. Let that dry and then apply a second coat of high build epoxy to the entire floor to provide the smooth surface. This is why you need more material. For large, severely pitted or corroded areas we recommend grinding down those areas or resurfacing with our Crack & Joint Compound (available in the crack & joint repair section) to reduce the amount of extra epoxy needed.
Oil Stain Floors: Floors that are heavily stained with oil such as service shops or older floors that had leaking oil drip on them for years. For normal stained floors use our industrial oil remover, for large stained areas or heavy stains you must coat these areas with our oil stop primer. This primer is specially made to adhere to oil. It's available in each of our epoxy kit sections. We recommend that you remove as much of the oil as possible with our oil remover then acid etch the floor and let dry then apply the oil primer to the stained areas. If a majority of the floor is stained it is recommended that you oil prime the entire floor. Let primer dry overnight and then apply any of our epoxy kits. Note: if using a light color epoxy such as Beige or white it is recommended that you prime the entire floor to maintain an even color finish.
Floors That Need To Be Done In One Day! For this you'll need to use either the Armor Mats or Armor Tiles. Both of these flooring products can be installed in a matter of hours. If you want to epoxy your floor and be back in service the same day you'll need to use our fast dry-one day epoxy kit. You'll have to diamond grind the floor so that you can apply the epoxy immediately when done. This is a complete two step kit and drys extremely quick so that you can start in the morning and be using the floor at the end of the day.
Basement Floors. These are the toughest floors to coat properly due to cracks, being covered with mastic or having water coming up from underneath. Moisture coming up form underneath is the worst problem since the rising water acts like a hydraulic jack and will push off any coating on the floor. Before coating any basement floors, do a moisture test by taping a 4x4 piece of plastic on all four sides, wait 48 hrs, if moisture is present under the plastic you must use our wet basement floor kit. If no moisture is present use our dry basement floor kit.
For VCT, Ceramic, Porcelain, Terracotta Tile Floors. Our kits work great over any type of VCT Tile! Secure any loose or broken tiles, fill in any missing ones with cement patch or other cheap VCT Tiles. Sand down tiles lightly to roughen up and to make sure any factory coating is removed. Then clean and etch with the etching solution in our kits. Then coat with ourCOAT-ALL EPOXY kit. Your old VCT Tiles will now be Permanently encapsulated!This kit is also good for coating over ceramic tiles, glass tiles, porcelain tiles or terracotta tiles.
Wood Floors. Wood floors can be coated with our epoxy kits. Simply sand the floors to remove any dirt and factory coating then prime with our Special Primer and coat with the epoxy kit of your choice. We recommend you call us for wood floor applications to review details just to be safe.
Cracks, Expansion Joints and Uneven Slabs. We have a whole section for these issues and we have a product for each condition. Hairline surface cracks will be filled by our epoxies. Larger cracks must be repaired with our crack and joint kits. In most cases the Instant Crack Repair kit will do the job. You simply mix Part A and Part B together and putty knife into the crack scrape smooth and then in 15 minutes you can epoxy right over the repair. No waiting 24 hrs for the compound to cure. Expansion joints and saw cuts can be filled or can be left as is. Keep in mind that these features have been put in your floor for a reason. On new floors we strongly recommend that you do not fill them in with a compound that hardens. Your new floor has not settled yet and will crack right in the middle of your new epoxy job if you fill in the Saw Cuts. Trust us you will not be happy if that happens! You should simply finish the Saw Cuts with the epoxy and having them look like Stone Slab Joints. Epoxy finished saw cuts add dimension to the floor and enhance the final appearance by looking like actual stone slab joints.
There is a difference between an Expansion Joint and a Saw Cut or Control Joint. An Expansion Joint is one that has a material in the joint. We recommend that expansion joints not be filled in and simply coated over. If you want to fill in the Expansion Joint then you must use our Flexible Joint Sealer which you can purchase from the Crack & Joint Repair Product page. This will bond with our epoxies and still remain flexible enough to handle your floor's expansion and contraction. Saw cuts can be filled with either the Instant Crack Kit or the Crack & Joint compound which you mix with locally bought Play Ground sand to form a mortar that you apply to large cracks and divots. Let it cure over night and then you can sand or grind smooth if needed prior to applying our epoxy. After filling cracks or expansion joints, etch the floor and repaired areas then coat unless you are using the Instant Repair Compound then you etch first then apply the Instant Crack Repair Compound. See the Crack & Joint Repair section.
PRODUCT FEATURE SUMMARY AND LINKS
COAT-ALL EPOXY KIT: Amazing epoxy and special primer allows you to coat surfaces that never could never hold an epoxy coating. Now you can apply a durable high gloss epoxy coating to just about any surface, all types of tiles, metal, plastic, rubber and more!
Armor II: Heavy Duty Epoxy System without decorative flakes. Has heavy duty 2 part solids epoxy with heavy duty commercial grade 2 part urethane fortified topcoat. Both epoxy and topcoat are the same color so that you get great color coverage with a High Gloss smooth finish. This system is not used for a colored chip finish since it has a solid color topcoat. See Armor Chip & Armor Granite for a floor with colored chips. This topcoat has an 8mg abrasion loss rating which makes it very resistant to wear and scratches. Cannot be compared to other coatings that only use a clear version of their epoxy and have abrasion ratings above 20mg. Those types of coatings are not heavy duty and will not stand the test of time. Use Armor II in Garages, light to medium metal or wood workshops, warehouses with light forklift traffic, retail showrooms and auto service areas, light aircraft hangers etc. High resistance to road salts, chemicals, impacts, foot traffic, rubber tire traffic, car jacks and car stands, water proof and stain resistant. For areas with heavy steel wheel traffic, heavy workshops or race shops, medium to large size aircraft, large exposure to chemicals and abrasive particles use the Ultra System.
Armor Ultra: Is our Extra Heavy Duty three coat system. Consisting of a high performance primer, a 2:1 ratio high build 100% solids epoxy coating and finished with the best Military Grade Topcoat in the industry. This topcoat is like putting liquid steel on your floor. It has a 4 mg abrasion loss rating as compared to our closet competitor which has a 24 mg loss rating. The lower the rating the better, meaning that less material was removed while under the abrasion test. A 4mg loss versus a 24 mg loss is an exponential difference, it is like putting interior semi gloss wall paint on your floor versus a military grade coating. To put in another perspective if our 4mg Topcoat would wear off in a month a 24 mg epoxy or topcoat would wear of in less than a day!
Ultra is great for just about any application! Can handle heavy wheel traffic, rubber or steel, good for workshops with heavy work loads, high chemical resistance, High Gloss, easy clean up, accepted for commercial kitchen applications, Food Production areas, we love using Ultra with Cove bases from SpeedCove.com, you can install these bases easily and then run the Ultra System along the floor and right up the cove base forming a water proof and sanitary seam between your floor and walls. Wash downs become super easy with no damage to your walls, this installation is like a water proof tub in fact.
Ultra is rated for industrial use on production floors, medium to large aircraft hanger applications and heavy use warehouse floors, high impact resistance , high resistance to large number of corrosive chemicals, high abrasion resistance. Good for covering lightly pitted or rough finish floors.
Since Ultra comes with a clear Topcoat you can purchase colored flakes and apply them into the second coat for a Terrazzo type finishArmor Chip & Armor Granite: super durable epoxy kits with everything you need to finish your garage or commercial floor to a Terrazzo or Granite look! These kits utilize our Ultra epoxy as the base coat and a heavy duty 1 part clear coat over the decorative chips. Armor Chip has 8 lbs of colored chips to simulate a Terrazzo look and the Armor Granite kit which is our top of the line kit contains 20lbs of high quality chips to simulate a granite floor look. Armor Granite comes with a slightly thicker version of the epoxy to provide a thicker base for the large quantity of chips and with three topcoats vs two topcoats for ArmorChip. With the ArmorGranite spiked soles come standard as does upgraded application tools. If you like the durability of Armor II or Ultra but want a colored chip finish also, upgrade the topcoat to the military grade topcoat for added protection. Your Topcoat is the most important factor of your epoxy floor. Topcoats are more important than the epoxy coating. Not using a real and or high quality topcoat is guaranteeing you that you are wasting your time and money epoxy coating your floor!
Basement Epoxy Kits: These kits are specifically designed for the special application needs of basement floors whether they are wet or dry basements. Please don't expect that you can slap any old kind of paint on your basement floor and expect it to stick. Please read the Basement epoxy pages before attempting to coat your basement floor.
One Day Epoxy Kit Specialized epoxy primer and epoxy that fully cures in a few hours. Can be applied with or without colored chips. Suitable for all commercial or residential applications. Indoor and outdoor rated.
Armor Tile: Super heavy duty interlocking floor tiles with water tight seams! 100,000lb roll over capacity and a Lifetime Guarantee. Most versatile indestructible flooring product made. Good for any residential, commercial or industrial application you can think of. Install a complete floor in a matter of hours with no prep work or adhesives needed. They are removable just as easy to make a repair or to move to a new location which makes them a great Trade Show Floor! Extremely impact and abrasion resistive. Will not crack, chip or buckle. We have the largest selection of solid prime PVC tiles with nine different types of tiles available in four thicknesses and ten different colors
Armor Mats: All residential garage applications, Gyms, Cafeterias, Car staging areas, waiting areas, play areas, mud rooms and any other high foot traffic area.
These are patterned high grade rubber roll out mats that you simply unroll over your floor. A fast and simple way to beautify and upgrade any floor. No prepping or floor repairs needed prior to installation.