Armor II is a solid color two layer commercial epoxy floor coating designed for easy Do It Yourself application. No prior experience needed, Armor II is sold as a complete turnkey package with everything you need for professional results including Free Shipping.
Complete DIY Commercial Epoxy Flooring
Armor II is approved and used by the U.S. Coast Guard in their Helicopter Air Station Hangars. It is an extremely durable epoxy coating with a super high gloss finish engineered to last 10-15 years. Perfect for commercial garages, warehouses, workshops, machine shops, race shops and hangars. Brightens even the darkest areas!
Rated for up to G-650 Aircraft. For Larger Aircraft or heavy forklift traffic use our Military Grade Epoxy System.
Included in your kit is our premium quality solids based 2 part epoxy base coat(1:1 MIX RATIO), our base coat alone out performs most other so called commercial duty epoxies. Base coat will be in the color of your choice. The second layer of the Armor II epoxy system is our 2 part urethane based anti wear epoxy topcoat(2:1 MIX RATIO) also in the color of your choice for superb color coverage(no streaks or bleed through), floor prep etch solution, TSP neutralizing powder, paddle mixer, high wear micro tubular aluminum non slip additive which makes the topcoat super durable(8mg Abrasion Loss rating, compared to over 20mgs for most other coatings), 9" lint free epoxy rollers and complete easy to follow instructions. Minimum size order is 550 sf and then in increments of 100 sf ie: 650, 750sf. For floors 2500 sq ft and up see our EPOXY FLOORING SYSTEM ON A PALLET section for discounted pricing and ordering.
Compare what other products really cost when you add in the topcoat, shipping and additional material to achieve equal color coverage and thickness! See the Epoxy Comparison Chart and compare prices and specs of other epoxies on an equal basis Before You Buy! Don't be fooled by a low per gallon price for your floor paint. They all cost much more when you buy everything you need to do the job right and especially so when you have to do the job a second time!
PLEASE NOTE that due to recent changes in VOC laws by the EPA certain states require the 'Low VOC' version. Note that the Low VOC version of the base coat is a 4:1 mix ratio, the topcoat is still a 2:1 mix ratio. Current states that these laws apply to are CA, CT, DE, IL, IN, MD, MA, ME, NJ, NY, OH, PA, RI, VA, KY and all of Canada. Orders shipping to these states require that the Low VOC Option be selected for the size kit you need in the Size Drop Down Box, orders to these states that have not selected the Low VOC option will be manually adjusted with the correct price when your order is processed.At 14 Mils thick it's up to 4 times thicker then water based or store bought epoxies and with our 8mg abrasion loss rated topcoat(the lower the better) it's a minimum of 3-7 times harder than any other epoxy brand! For commercial applications you must have an abrasion loss rating of less than 15mg and a coating thickness of at least 12 Mils for a smooth durable finish. This is just an epoxy fact that we've learned from years of experience and over 40 million square feet of installed epoxy floors. If you have an existing coating that has worn out prematurely you can use our Bonding Primer to coat over it so you don't have to look at an ugly floor any longer.
Some of our competition try to pass off a clear version of their epoxy as a topcoat, please know that epoxies are not and cannot be topcoats! Applying a clear version of epoxy does absolutely nothing, any true Topcoat is Urethane fortified and has much stronger chemical cross linking which results in a much harder(Durable) finish than any epoxy. Also simply adding some sort of UV additive into a clear epoxy does not make it a Topcoat!
A topcoat must have a lower abrasion loss rating than the epoxy for it to be considered a topcoat. Armor II has an abrasion loss rating of only 8mgs compared to typical other epoxy brands that are 24 and up to 50mgs loss ratings. That's an exponential difference in durability and longevity. Which is why Armor Garage floors last longer and look better longer than any other epoxy floors.
One part floor paints, thin water based epoxies and hybrid solids epoxies such as Cycloaliphatic epoxies without topcoats can't cover or adhere to concrete surfaces properly. Many epoxies have what we call concrete bleed through resulting in an uneven and unsightly finish causing you to buy and apply a lot more product. Cycloaliphatic epoxies actually bubble up as you apply them requiring you to use a leaf blower to blow the bubbles out as you go! Armor II goes down with no bubbles and self levels to a perfectly smooth finish. On top of all the other issues water based and cycloaliphatic epoxies have they will also yellow and wear through a lot sooner then you ever imagined or wanted. They just don't have the abrasion resistance ArmorGarage epoxies do. So even after spending more time and money on extra materials you still won't have a floor finish equal to the color quality and durability of an ArmorGarage Floor!
Armor II Is A Commercial Grade Shop, Hangar and Showroom Epoxy Floor Coating
With the Armor II System your floor will be safe from tire abrasion, heavy foot traffic, hot tire lifting, accidental impacts, corrosive road salts, salt air, most acids & chemicals, UV rays and all vehicle fluids including battery acid!
Use the Fast Dry Version when you need to get your floor back in service the same day! Walk on it 1-2 hours after you're done. Light traffic such as dollies and hand trucks in 4 hours, heavy traffic such as forklifts in 8-10 hours!
For a color flake finish see Garage Floor Epoxy. Where you can view our Armor Chip & Armor Granite Garage Kits with colored flakes.
PLEASE NOTE THAT LIGHTER COLORS SUCH AS BEIGE AND OR ROUGHER & MORE POROUS SURFACES WILL YIELD LESS COVERAGE.ORDERING: Simply enter the appropriate square footage for your floor in the quantity box. Please note that coverage is not an exact science since every floor will vary in the absorption rate of the epoxy so DO NOT order to the exact square footage, allow a 10% safety factor to ensure you have enough material to properly cover your floor and have a little left over that you can put into small cans or jars and store.
Note: Minimum order size for this product is 550 sf and then in additional 100 sf increments, ie: 650,750, 850 sf.
AVERAGE DRY TIME FOR BASE COAT IS 4-5 HRS AND 6-8 HRS FOR THE TOPCOAT. THE WARMER THE FLOOR IS THE FASTER THE COATINGS WILL DRY
Commercial Flooring Epoxy Application
WHILE APPLICATION IS EASY AND STRAIGHT FORWARD, ARMOR II IS NOT LIKE STORE BOUGHT EPOXY SO PLEASE WATCH THE VIDEO OF AN ACTUAL COMMERCIAL INSTALLATION THEN PRINT AND READ THE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW:
If you are grinding your floor it is still recommended that you etch the floor as you are rinsing off the dust from grinding, this will ensure the concrete pores are clean and open. Our epoxy will form a permanent molecular bond into those open pores. If you are coating over an existing coating see this for instructions on how to do it. The example is for an overlay with Armor Chip but the procedure is the same for any of epoxy floor kits.For instructions on how to coat over an existing coating CLICK HERE
Watch the Armor II Video Below for an actual Commercial Epoxy Flooring On A Pallet Job being installed with step by step instructions and detailed product information
INSTALLATION TIME FOR TYPICAL 600 SF KIT IS:1-2 Hrs Clean & Etch, 1-2 Hrs Epoxy Paint, Les than 1 Hr Topcoat.
Mix 1 gallon of product per person rolling. When doing a floor with multiple people have one dedicated person doing the mixing. Then pour mixed product into a pail for each individual rolling.
Dry time for the base coat is 4-5 hrs, you can apply the topcoat when base coat is dry to the touch. Topcoat will dry in 6-7 hrs at which time light traffic is ok. Vehicle and heavier traffic requires 48hrs of curing.
Floor temperature should be 50 degrees and higher do not apply if heavy rain is forecast. Light rain is ok.
If at anytime you have any questions about your floor preparation or the application of the epoxy you can call or email us at anytime. After hours please send email to email@example.com someone is on stand by 7 days a week.
Armor II Commercial Epoxy is:
14 Mils thick with an 8mg abrasion rating. See Need to Know to learn what the abrasion rating means.
Is a solids based aliphatic epoxy. It is not a water based or cyclioaliphatic hybrid epoxy.
Penetrates and makes a molecular bond with concrete resulting in the first layer of concrete coming off with the epoxy during pull testing.
160 ft/lbs of impact resistance, can handle dropped tools and parts.
Chemical and acid resistant, can handle caustic wash downs in breweries and food production plants.
All application tools and nonslip additive are included
Clean up is super easy and fast! Simply rinse dirt off with a hose or wipe your floor clean in minutes with a damp rag on a Tee Stick or mop! Even paint spills clean up like the your floor was Teflon coated!
Armor II is self leveling, slip resistant, stain resistant, waterproof, heavy traffic rated and hot tire lifting proof.
Cures to a perfect super hard high gloss porcelain like finish automatically. Even first timers come out looking like a pro! Paint in the morning, Topcoat in 4-6 hrs and drive on it in 48 hrs! It's a Quick, Easy, Beautiful and Super Durable System!
Armor II can be applied over new concrete after 28 days.
If applying over an existing coating or wood, prime first with our Special Bonding Primer.
If applying over oil stained floors use our Special Oil Primer first.
Grinding is not necessary unless you cannot get the floor properly clean, see the How To Prep & Epoxy Paint Your Floor page to see what your floor should look like prior to applying an epoxy coating.
Power washing your floor clean first is always recommended, while the floor is wet you can apply the etching solution. You want your floor perfectly clean to ensure a full molecular bond between the epoxy and the concrete. To avoid etching your driveway or other surfaces, wet them down prior to rinsing the etch solution.
Lifespan should be 10-15 years under normal use.
All solids based epoxies will yellow if not coated with a true urethane epoxy topcoat. Epoxies are not topcoats and cannot be made into topcoats. If you apply an epoxy with some sort of additives in it as a topcoat expect your floor to yellow. Additives in your epoxy will only slow the yellowing it will not prevent it. Only a true Topcoat can prevent yellowing and dulling, epoxies with additives do not, in fact they are basically a waste of time and money.
Armor II is USDA approved and can be used in commercial kitchens. When using in commercial kitchens are any other application with slippery floors please request the white aluminum oxide nonslip. This will give you added traction over the standard nonslip.
Floor cleaning can be accomplished with a cleaner such as Simple Green. Harsh chemicals should not be needed. You can use a Magic Eraser on stubborn spots.
If the Topcoat begins to wear you can always roll on another Topcoat. The base coat should stay indefinitely.
What is the difference between Armor Chip, Armor Granite and Armor II?First, Armor Chip and Armor Granite are base color epoxies with colored chips while Armor II is a base color epoxy with a color topcoat, except for Green which comes with a clear topcoat. Armor II has a little thinner base coat that is not suitable for applying chips. The epoxy for Armor Chips is a thick 100% solids epoxy to provide a good base for the chips and Armor Granite's epoxy is even thicker since you are adding in 20lbs of chips as opposed to 8lbs for Armor Chip. Armor II has a much heavier duty topcoat than the standard Topcoat of the Armor Chip or Granite kits making it suitable for forklift use and other commercial duty applications. Chip and Granite kits come with two and three layers of topcoat respectively. If you want the equivalent of Armor II in durability with Armor Chip or Armor Granite than upgrade the topcoat to the military grade version.
Nonslip additive is provided as standard, it is not necessary to use but we strongly recommend it since the floor will be slippery when wet. If you are using this in a commercial business such as a repair shop, machine shop or any floor that will have liquids on it we can provide you with an extra heavy nonslip additive at no extra charge. If ordering by phone just let us know while you're placing the order. If ordering online just put a note in the comment box on the checkout page to provide the heavy duty nonslip.
The biggest mistake you can make is not using a Urethane fortified topcoat! Did you know that ALL solids based epoxy coatings are NOT UV stable? Without a urethane fortified epoxy topcoat, ALL solids based epoxies will yellow and turn dull fairly quickly. Real Topcoats have a much harder finish and are more expensive to manufacture than epoxies! Our topcoat has an 8mg loss rating based on the Taber CS-17 industry standard test any topcoat that does not have a 20mg or less abrasion loss rating will scuff and wear out right through to the concrete prematurely—that's an indisputable epoxy fact. This is especially true if a company's topcoat is just a clear version of their epoxy. Typically these epoxy coatings have loss ratings of 24mgs and higher which is exponentially softer than our 8mg topcoat. This offers absolutely no additional wear or UV protection. In other words, it's a waste of time and money to apply a clear epoxy or any epoxy over another epoxy as a final coat. Also simply adding in a UV additive to a clear epoxy does not make that epoxy a topcoat! Epoxies are not topcoats, they do not contain urethane, they are much softer and have a completely different chemical cross linking composition of resins and hardeners.
Cleaning and etching are two different things but can be done at the same time. Cleaning is obviously to get the concrete looking as clean as new concrete and the etching is to open up the pores. You can power wash the floor clean and then do the etching while the floor is wet and then do a power rinse. Make sure all oil stains are removed, try Liquid Tide scrubbed in with some etch acid to remove stains. Test stained areas with some water, if the water doesn't soak in or turns to a rainbow bluish tint it means the oil has not been removed completely.
Sealers must be removed either chemically or by mechanical grinding. Test with water splash to make sure water soaks into concrete. You can rent the floor prep machine from Home Depot to remove stubborn sealers
Good idea to have clear plastic calibrated containers on hand to measure the epoxy liquids accurately when mixing the Part A and Part B components.
Good idea to have a small can of Xylene, available at any hardware store or big box store. Clean up and spills or tools you want to keep while epoxy is wet. Once the epoxy is dry the only way to remove is via grinding or with hammer and chisel.
Repair cracks and divots prior to etching when using the Crack & Joint Repair Compound. When using the Readi Crack filler do repairs after cleaning and etching.